🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.